In Search of the Perfect Peach

This original and bold book offers an inspiring vision of how we can all choose flavour to fix our food system. According to the author, flavour is the best compass we have and indeed the most enjoyable. He argues in his conclusion that ‘we must reintroduce flavour to the centre of the food system. We must return power to the consumer. And we must break the industrial food cycle. A flavour-driven revolution will deliver the flavour-first food system we desperately need.’ (p. 185) The book begins with the experience of biting into a perfect peach, which will surely resonate with many readers. The author writes as CEO of Natoora, a flavour-led fruit and vegetable supplier to many of the world’s top restaurants. Here he tells the story of his own journey and encounters with many producers.

Loss of flavour is associated with the rise of industrial agriculture and supermarkets driven by an obsession with yield and profit while prioritising uniformity and exerting downward pressure on farm prices. The book makes an indisputable link between flavour and nutrition, also noting the decline in nutrient density and the insipid taste resulting from overwatering; moreover, there is a vast loss of biodiversity in the drive to patent seeds for private gain. This has all fed into a health and obesity crisis, and as I write, the food and pharmaceutical industries are plotting how they can make sure that RFK Jr is not appointed health secretary to tackle precisely these issues. Other important themes include seasonality, protecting the soil, creating a market for flavour, the role of chefs, and the need for sustainable supply chains, especially for ripe produce. Education is also critical in becoming aware of existing agendas designed for addiction. More broadly, the overall environmental decline results from ‘the serious side effects of an industrial food system that prioritises cheap, nutritionally poor, water-rich food that is ultra-processed with engineered flavour.’ It is high time for the flavour-led food revolution advocated here. This is very much in our hands as consumers making choices on the daily basis.